I'm doing a 2 step paint process that uses a primer base coat and a color top coat. I use an interior latex white primer. I've tried several brands of primer, and my least favorite one is Zinsser. It is too thick and leaves a lot of brush strokes. The surface after using the Zinsser isn't smooth and requires some sanding to make it smooth. 'Sanding' primer is really just rolling some of the paint off. It doesn't create 'sawdust', just these little 'rolls' of paint. I like the store brands from Ace hardware, or Lowe's. They are thinner, but still cover well. The purposes of primer on bare wood is to fill in little imperfections in the wood, conceal any dark spots from the heat gun or dark grain, and allow the latex color coat to stick to the wood better. I don't really think there's any difference between exterior and interior primer even if the paint manufacturer or store clerk says so. Latex top coats are the ones that have to stand up to the environment, so I would think they are the ones that would have better resins for exterior and better washing ability for the interior version.
One thing I forgot to mention and it's very important - The screw holes for the upper sash latch should be made NOW. The reason is that the latch for the upper sash is on the top of the bottom rail of the sash next to the glass. (did that make sense?) The screws need pilot holes that have to be drilled. If you put the glass in first, you won't have room to get a drill straight to make the hole, and a power tool might break the glass. I forgot to do this on one upper sash, and I'm not sure what to do. I'm going to install it this weekend, and I'll write what I did.
Drill the latch pilot holes and screw the upper sash latch piece on, then take it back off to paint. Cover the screw holes with a bit of painters tape so the paint doesn't fill them up.
I'm priming before the glass is installed because if the glazing is put on unsealed wood, the oils (linseed oil) will get drawn out of the glazing and make it crack. The old method is to seal the wood with linseed oil, but I don't like to use the stuff due to it's property of spontaneously combusting if it's put in a covered trash container.
One thing I forgot to mention and it's very important - The screw holes for the upper sash latch should be made NOW. The reason is that the latch for the upper sash is on the top of the bottom rail of the sash next to the glass. (did that make sense?) The screws need pilot holes that have to be drilled. If you put the glass in first, you won't have room to get a drill straight to make the hole, and a power tool might break the glass. I forgot to do this on one upper sash, and I'm not sure what to do. I'm going to install it this weekend, and I'll write what I did.
Drill the latch pilot holes and screw the upper sash latch piece on, then take it back off to paint. Cover the screw holes with a bit of painters tape so the paint doesn't fill them up.
I'm priming before the glass is installed because if the glazing is put on unsealed wood, the oils (linseed oil) will get drawn out of the glazing and make it crack. The old method is to seal the wood with linseed oil, but I don't like to use the stuff due to it's property of spontaneously combusting if it's put in a covered trash container.
No comments:
Post a Comment