So the tear down is complete. (except the pullies, more on that later.) The interior stops, one side parting member, vertical trim, weights, ropes and sashes are all removed. The vertical trim, interior stops and sashes are refinished in the basement. The weights were wiped down and stored upstairs. The ropes were all thrown away. The parting members were broken and thrown away.
The 1st thing to do is remove the nails and latches. To evaluate the work that's needed or possible, some paint has to be removed. If any glass is broken, it's obvious that will need to be replaced, but the sash corner joints have all kinds of problems.
I learned that the best way to remove glass that has 100 year old hardened glazing without breaking everything around it is to use a heat gun. That has some risk too, like burning the paint, or wood and breaking the glass. Using a chisel or breaking it out is just not an option. The heat from the gun must not be too much on the glass or it will break which means the center of the heat cone will be over the edge of the wood. The outside of the sashes were originally painted with some sort of black laquer paint that would burn into the wood and damage it beyond the ability to sand it out, not to mention the horrible fumes it creates. So the paint on the outside (glazing side) must be removed by using chemicals even before the glass is removed. Read my previous post to see my favorite paint remover. I slopped the paint remover over the glazing as well because it starts to soften it up and makes removing it easier. After scraping off the paint I used a palm sander to remove as much of the paint residue as possible. Then I went after the glazing with the heat gun. It took some practice to get the glass out without breaking it. I broke 2 or 3 panes doing this before I developed the right combination of chemicals, tools, job order, and techniques.
After the glass is removed, the sash can be cleaned up the rest of the way. Remove the paint from the inside surface with chemicals. Use the heat gun and putty knife to remove any left over glazing from the rabbited edge for the glass. The paint remover will make the wood a bit wet and leave chemical residue in the areas you can't get with a scraper. Make sure the wood and residue are completely dry before sanding or digging out the residue.
Now the sash can be evaluated for needed repairs.
Here's a vid of me using a carpet knife to remove the rot before patching with epoxy.
The 1st thing to do is remove the nails and latches. To evaluate the work that's needed or possible, some paint has to be removed. If any glass is broken, it's obvious that will need to be replaced, but the sash corner joints have all kinds of problems.
I learned that the best way to remove glass that has 100 year old hardened glazing without breaking everything around it is to use a heat gun. That has some risk too, like burning the paint, or wood and breaking the glass. Using a chisel or breaking it out is just not an option. The heat from the gun must not be too much on the glass or it will break which means the center of the heat cone will be over the edge of the wood. The outside of the sashes were originally painted with some sort of black laquer paint that would burn into the wood and damage it beyond the ability to sand it out, not to mention the horrible fumes it creates. So the paint on the outside (glazing side) must be removed by using chemicals even before the glass is removed. Read my previous post to see my favorite paint remover. I slopped the paint remover over the glazing as well because it starts to soften it up and makes removing it easier. After scraping off the paint I used a palm sander to remove as much of the paint residue as possible. Then I went after the glazing with the heat gun. It took some practice to get the glass out without breaking it. I broke 2 or 3 panes doing this before I developed the right combination of chemicals, tools, job order, and techniques.
After the glass is removed, the sash can be cleaned up the rest of the way. Remove the paint from the inside surface with chemicals. Use the heat gun and putty knife to remove any left over glazing from the rabbited edge for the glass. The paint remover will make the wood a bit wet and leave chemical residue in the areas you can't get with a scraper. Make sure the wood and residue are completely dry before sanding or digging out the residue.
Now the sash can be evaluated for needed repairs.
Here's a vid of me using a carpet knife to remove the rot before patching with epoxy.
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