Before painting, the area must be cleaned of any sawdust, and removed glue or glazing pieces. I use a water spray bottle and some paper towels for the work bench, and a floor vac with a good bag and filter for the floor.
The glazing side (outside) was painted white. the inside was painted a light green color. I used interior semigloss latex for all the paint because water can be used to clean the brushes and stir sticks, semigloss hides brush marks, and interior paint is better for cleaning. I made one color mistake. The bottom edge of the top sash should be white, I painted it green. I don't think anyone will notice it though because its 30 feet up and behind aluminum storm windows.
When I started this project the main goals were to have working windows that didn't leak, rattle, or stick. Satisfying the first two could make the last goal difficult. The best way I saw to prevent sticking, was to not have paint to paint contact. I used painter's tape to mask off about a 1/2 inch of the side rails on both sides of the upper and lower sashes. I also masked off the areas of the channels and parting members on the window casings that would have friction from moving parts, but I'll write about that when I get to the upstairs room work.
I masked off the glass too, even though some people just scrape the excess paint off the glass with a razor blade. I find masking off easier. I used an angle cut brush with fine bristles to reduce brush marks.
You can see in these pictures the sash sides were left as bare wood.
Notice the screw holes for the latch fixture in the upper sash. Very important!
The glazing side (outside) was painted white. the inside was painted a light green color. I used interior semigloss latex for all the paint because water can be used to clean the brushes and stir sticks, semigloss hides brush marks, and interior paint is better for cleaning. I made one color mistake. The bottom edge of the top sash should be white, I painted it green. I don't think anyone will notice it though because its 30 feet up and behind aluminum storm windows.
When I started this project the main goals were to have working windows that didn't leak, rattle, or stick. Satisfying the first two could make the last goal difficult. The best way I saw to prevent sticking, was to not have paint to paint contact. I used painter's tape to mask off about a 1/2 inch of the side rails on both sides of the upper and lower sashes. I also masked off the areas of the channels and parting members on the window casings that would have friction from moving parts, but I'll write about that when I get to the upstairs room work.
I masked off the glass too, even though some people just scrape the excess paint off the glass with a razor blade. I find masking off easier. I used an angle cut brush with fine bristles to reduce brush marks.
You can see in these pictures the sash sides were left as bare wood.
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